So these two blondes get off a plane in Morocco...

Greetings from a local, long-haul bus in Morocco. Heading back to Marrakech after a much needed couple days at the beach in Essaouira. We've been in Morocco for 11 days now (and travelled the world mind you) but today learned a lesson for the umpteenth time, to slow down otherwise you will get ripped off. So here I am slowing down.

I had the best intention of keeping up on a blog this travel go around. Swore to myself I would write regularly and share experiences as they unfolded. But do you think I have done that? A big fat no. So this is my attempt of breaking my writers block and getting something out so that for the next 6 weeks I'll be full of animated details, colorful words and life changing statements (ok not really, but a girl can dream). Do forgive me though for incomplete sentences as I write this, because at the moment I have two French guys sitting in the seats behind me banging away on their new Moroccan instruments and a lovely body-odor and tobacco soaked, middle aged man's hip pressed against my left shoulder. Literally. Ah, the pure romance of this country.

So the story begins...

After a wonderful un-Christmas, Christmas and a rain-soaked, sequin and champagne New Year in Paris, we rolled our clothes, gathered our 3 oz. travel toiletries and put on our walking shoes - it was time for Morocco. Justin (brother) and Shayla (friend) joined Rachel and I for our first few days on the journey and we headed straight for Assilah after getting off the plane. Assilah is this beautiful coastal town just 45km south of Tangier. If I had just seen a snapshot I would've guessed it for Greece, with it's white washed walls and blue roofs over looking the crashing waves on the rocky Atlantic shore. As many of you know, or don't, this trip has a different spin to it than my normal nomad-ing around shenanigans. This is the birthday trip of Delyea Navone - my next life venture with my friend and business partner Rachel (she brings the Navone side of things). So we are galavanting around the world, buying up artisan, home decor beauties from the locals and bringing it home to you. Isn't that nice of us?

Our first day and first shop in Morocco, we stumbled upon this lovely carpet salesman by the name of Omar. After spending about 15 minutes in his shop and checking out the scene (along with an approving nod from Justin) we decided this would be the first official buying stop for Delyea Navone. And so, history was made.

Knowing Justin and Shay only had a few days to enjoy the mysterious beauty of this North African country, we headed back to Tangier to make sure we didn't miss anything that was to be seen. And here I will pause to tell you - there was nothing to be seen and we didn't miss anything. So let's skip that. Bid adieux to our friends (wish they had better luck making it back to the states! But I'll let them tell you that story), and Rachel and I boarded a train to the lovely handicraft center of Morocco, Fes.

From the terrace at our guest house.

We had met a guy on the train who worked for the tourism board in Tangier and had lived in Chicago for years a few years back, so when he recommended we get a government official tour guide to help us navigate the labyrinth of the Fes medina, we thought it could be a good idea because we only had so many days in this town and a lot to accomplish. We should've known though with our past guide experience(s) that this in the end, would really be no different. Every shop was a friends shop, and every shop gave him a kick back as incentive to take us there - none of which were the kinds of shops we wanted to go to! So in the end we ditched him with a little sour taste in our mouth and had one final day to lose ourselves in the medina. And for those of you who don't know (because I didn't before coming here), each city in Morocco has a medina. It's the old, cultural part of town that the rest of the cities have been built around. There is a wall around this section of town in case you are ever to confuse it with the Ville Nouvelle (new town). Every section or town within the medina itself has five things always: a fountain, a school, a hammam, a bakery and a mosque. They are quite charming, the streets are intertwined in a maze like you've never seen before and it feels like you have taken one giant leap back in time. And the Fes medina is one of the most spectacular! Picture David Bowie in the movie Labyrinth and all the majestical creatures (not the bulge and spandex) and corners to turn to get lost, throw in the call to prayer throughout the day, some donkey drawn carts, and the never ending smell of the tanneries, animal hides, merchants selling everything you could want, and you've got yourself a glimpse of the Fes medina.

Marrakech was a welcomed change when it came time to go. The 7 hour train ride delivered us to a city that was cleaner than expected and housed a romance and charm that echoed through the city. We found a nice little place just off the Djemaa El Fna, the main square in the medina where story tellers engage their audience in Arabic, cross-dressing belly dancers shake what their mommas gave them, snake charmers charm and music plays wildly through the crowds. The square is mildly quiet during the day with boxing matches, monkeys on chains and merchants selling goods, but at night it becomes alive in the most vibrant way like nothing you have ever seen with thousands of participants. At first you may think this is just a show for the tourists, but its been going on for hundreds and hundreds of years - so it's really about the locals and many things have stayed true to form for the duration. Around 4pm you can walk through and see all of the stands for food being set up just as they had the night before, and sit amongst everything while enjoying some cheap Moroccan fare and wash it all down with a glass of mint tea. Absolutely amazing.

We spent a few days in Marrakech wandering through the bazaar and plotting and scheming for Delyea Navone. We made some purchases we are REALLY excited about and can't wait to share with everyone. There are endless amounts of stalls selling everything from wood carvings, shoes and carpets to olives, antiques and djellaba. A place to really got lost with all of your senses. It definitely can be hard walking around as two blondes, with blue eyes and no denying fair skin. A lot of obscenities boldly yelled out as you approach or worst yet, whispered in your ear as you walk by. That part never really gets any easier, you just learn to ignore it all the while wanting to punch anyone with the nerve square in the jaw or let your knee find their groin in the friendliest of manner (just needed to vent). Needless to say, it was very welcomed when our friend Carla from the Philippines who we met in Turkey last year introduced us to her friend Diego from home who is living in Marrakech with his family. He and his boss (3 year old darling Sibol) met us for the day, and it was pure bliss having a man to walk through the craziness with. It didn't stop the hollering but it at least muted it a little and he was oh so helpful. One of the highlights of the day spent with our new friend Deigo was escaping the center of town a bit to explore the Jardin Majorelle, a 12 acre botanical garden owned by the late Yves Saint-Laurent where his ashes are now scattered. I can see why the man loved it there so much.

Sunset over the Atlantic taken in Essaouira

As we were nearing the end of our buying time in Morocco, we decided to escape to the coast for a couple days of relaxation to recharge the ol' batteries. It worked! We headed to Essaouira. A beach town known for its surfing and artist vibe. The guide books have said it hasn't really been discovered by tourist, which I would have to strongly disagree with - it seemed to cater quite strongly to tourists with all of the shops and surf shops and guest houses listing prices in both Euros and Dirhams. It was exactly what the doctor ordered though, I tell ya and will making a repeat visit at some point. We met some great people from Australia and Canada and created instant bonds, even though the in-person friendship may have lasted only 8 hours you just never know when you may cross paths again. Fingers crossed it's soon.

One final night in Marrakech topped this part of the trip off. Scrambled to make our final Moroccan purchases to send off to home, eat every last drop of couscous we could and be inappropriately groped one last time (got those elbows in a few guts though - pow!), and it was time to say good-bye to this magical country, until we meet again...which probably won't be that far away.

Our route in Morocco

As mentioned before, I'm working my way back into this whole blogging thing and tend to skip over a lot of detail or let me mind work faster than my fingers and only get one bits of pieces of stories. Hope it makes a little sense! For more complete stories and better detail than I could ever give you, you can check out Rachel's blog and be sure to follow Delyea Navone on FB where we have a little blog action going as well (a little plug). You'll have blogs coming out your ears by the time all is said and done.

Big hugs to you all! Up next, Turkey.